Chilling Out at Caramoan: The D-I-Y Way

(Click on pictures for larger view. Photos courtesy of Kuya Arnold L., Karen B., Kuya Rainier B., and Joann Z. Thanks po!)

Caramoan Paradise

Imagine tranquility and nature. Picture white sand beaches, rolling hills, fresh sea foods and friendly locals--a cozy escape from the mundane and the busy life. Savor the spirit of travel and adventure all within reach. This is Caramoan.





Located at the tip of the Caramoan Peninsula in the Province of Camarines Sur (Bicol Region), the once slow-paced rural fishing town of Caramoan has been bustling with tourism activities of late. The place is touted to be one of the top travel destinations in the Philippines in the recent years and in fact, was catapulted to widespread--and dare I say international--fame after two foreign Survivor Series have been shot in the island--the first one from France and the second, from Israel if I remember correctly. Hence, the island has become a part of the mainstream Pinoy traveler's lingo.






A friend of mine once said that roads seem to be heading to Caramoan nowadays. To me, why wouldn't they? Caramoan offers beautiful white sand beaches, is a wonderful swimming, snorkeling and beach-bumming location and is much nearer from Manila. Before tourism became too commercialized, the place was also dirt cheap. My second trip to Caramoan in 2007 was only under the tight budget of P1000.00 (the first one, virtually free because it was sponsored by a friend). That is from Naga City and there were six of us; for travelers from Manila, it could be a little more costly but not sky-high expensive. Anyways, most tourists who go to Caramoan drop-by at the Camarines Sur Watersports Complex or CWC either before or after their trip, in order to make the most out of their CamSur visit. The CWC is a world-class watersports park for wakeboarding, waterskiing, wakeskating and other water sports.


A Splashy Ride: On Board the "Harry"



How to Reach Caramoan

I have been to Caramoan three times, so here I am sharing my experiences, itinerary, budget and other tourist tips. Getting to Caramoan is admittedly a long and tiring trip. Tourists from Manila have the option to take the bus from Cubao or Pasay (or other booking places) or to travel by plane. The bus ride from Manila to Naga could last from 8 to 10 hours, depending on the quality of the perpetually "under construction" highways on the way to Bicol. Bus fare could range from PHP600 to PHP1000 for airconditioned buses (2x2, coach type and sleeper type). Fortunately, there are really nice buses to bicol, the latest is the sleeper type of Isarog Bus Line. Fare for non-aircon or ordinary buses could be way cheaper and even negotiable, except that there'll be incessant stops.

On the other hand, tourists may opt to take a plane to Naga City, the flight lasting only forty-five minutes. Sometimes plane fares are now cheaper than bus fares because of the periodic seat sales of the major airline companies. You just have to be quick in availing of these promos :)Or you may just book early, as I usually do. I would advice travel by plane if budget allows :) From Naga Airport, which is actually in Pili, take a bus or jeep to Naga terminal. Don't take the taxi unless you're willing to pay PHP300. Sayang! From there, take a van to Sabang, Partido, Camarines Sur. There are also buses, but vans are more advisable lest you get left behind by the last ferry trip to Caramoan. Trips to Caramoan are only until 11am.

The van ride from Naga to Sabang takes another two hours at most, and that doesn't include the waiting time for the van to fill up. Upon arrival in Sabang, look for the "Harry" ferry (it's the name of the boat franchise) going to Guijalo Port of Caramoan. Harry trips are at every two hours interval, but the last trip is only up to 11AM. It is preferable for tourists to make it to the 6AM trip in order to arrive early and thus, start the fun early. Fare for the van is PHP90 while for the boat, PHP125. The ferry trip from Sabang Port to Guijalo Port also lasts around two hours, but I've never been bored due to the amazing view of the sea and mountains.

To recap the trip: Take a bus or plane from Manila to Naga City; if you traveled by plane, ride a pedicab from the Naga airport to the highway (fare is less than P10.00) and a jeep or bus from Pili to Naga (fare approx. P10 to P12.00); upon arrival at Naga terminal, search for the van terminal and ride a van going to Sabang, Partido; From Sabang, look for the "Harry" boat going to Caramoan.

Where to Stay

Upon reaching Guijalo Port, take a "single"/habal-habal or a motorcycle for PHP 30 to the town center and from there you can find several lodges, inns, hotels and homestays. Rate among these accommodations differ especially depending on whether it is peak season or not. During my first trip, I stayed at the house of a friend so it was free. On my second trip, we stayed at Villa Juliana Hotel. No fancy stuff here, just a basic lodge but really, really cheap. The room we rented was only P600 (way back in '07) and accommodated the six of us since it has two double beds and have an additional foam. During my third visit in 2009, my friend Joann and I stayed over at the homestay of the Latam family at Panim-am. I reckon they are quite well-known in the place so you may just ask around. We got our room for P200 per head (big bed, electric fan), plus the owner was kind enough to cook food for us, for a fee of course. Anyways, depending on your hunting skills for cheap and comfy place, accommodation can range from PHP3000 per house to PHP150 per room. Just don't expect such fancy resort amenities...cowboy lang kumbaga ;)

Things to Do: Hike, Island Hop, Swim, Snorkel and Relax

For the first day, you can hike at Mount Caglago, on top of which is the grotto of the Our Lady of the Holy Rosary.


My Caramoan buddies circa summer '07 ;)


It was Don who got everything planned out during my second trip. He was ika nga, the mastermind of the trip. This friend of mine is the best planner in the world really, that the multicab, boat rentals, and even our food were all taken cared of. Hence, I'm quite ignorant of the rates then. Anyways on the way to Mt. Caglago,we rode a multicab from the centro going to Brgy Bikal. It was a 30-minute ride approximately and from Bikal,a small boat fetched us to take us to the foot of the Mountain. We started hiking around 3pm and after one hour and several hundreds of steps, we were already on the top of the mountain, before the gigantic statue of the Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary. It was really a tiring climb! But it was our pilgrimage; plus, in the company of happy friends, nothing is super tiring :)

This was how the grotto of Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary looked like in '07.

Grotto was under construction after being destroyed by a super typhoon. Locals consider the grotto as their protector.

The Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary today. Really magnificent. Thanks to Mading Karen Bolanos for taking this shot.

Our arduous hike was rewarded with an amazing view! Besides the satisfaction of conquering a 500-step hike, we also got the chance to enjoy the breathtaking view on top of the mountain. One can see the blue seas of Caramoan and its different islands. It was the perfect afternoon to forget everything, relax, and just be thankful for the surrounding beauty and the company of good friends. We only have peanuts, some bread, mineral water and one liter of Gatorade with us, but everything was perfect :)


A Dreamy Afternoon at Mt. Caglago





However, we have to cut short our sight-seeing and relaxation time because we have to get down before dusk, lest we fall down the flight of stairs. Time really runs so fast when things are perfect and happy! But anyways, there was still more adventure waiting for us the next day. So we went back to our hotel, ate at the house of Don's friend, sang some songs at the videoke, washed up and went to sleep.

The second day is to be spent for what else but island hopping! Yup, Caramoan has a number of beautiful islands, although the local government is only extensively advertising Gota and Honoan Resorts. The islands I'm talking about have fine white sands; other have cream-colored sands with courser grains. Some are already populated with tourists, others are still unexploited and serene. These islands are usually 20 to 30 minutes away from each other.


One of the Islands of Caramoan


Matukad Island

We ate lunch at one of the islands, I forgot the name of the island but I will never forget our delicious meal. Until today, I consider the same as one of the best meals in my life. No kidding! We had fresh grilled malasugi (blue marlin)--cooked just the way I like, medium rare. The fish was cooked to perfect juiciness and the chunks of fishmeat, really yummy. We also had large crabs (mud crabs), the very thought of which makes my mouth water already. Plus there's a dip of toyo-sili-mansi.






@Lahos Island: My Fave Jumpshot

We visited Nipa Island, Honoan Island (before it was converted into a first class resort), Sabitan Laiya, Lahos or Bichara Island, and Matukad Island. Each of them is beautiful in its own right, but Matukad Beach is flaunted by the locals to have the finest sand among all the beaches there :) We even discovered that the fine white sand can be used as exfoliant. Up in the limestone mountains that surround Matukad Island is an emerald-colored pond. I haven't seen it yet but according to locals, it serves as a home to a giant electric eel, or to some potentially frightening fish creature. Anywys, I'm more interested in the view, although a friend of mine who climbed the said peak already dashed my hopes. The pond is now ugly, says him. I hope not! Then there is Lahos Island, which I also love so much... In my 3 trips there, I never fail to visit these two islands.


With another fave lakwatsa buddy, Joann @ Lahos Island



Sunset,Silvery Glow on the Water and Silhouettes

The Tropa @ Matukad Island



(These beautiful pictures were taken by Kuya Arnold Lagrimas. Super thanks!)

We waited for sunset at Lahos and enjoyed the fantastic view of the setting sun casting silvery glow on the once blue-green water. The sea is quite choppy in the afternoon, so prepare for a rougher ride on the way back. Or you may choose to stay overnight at one of the islands, some of the tourists do so.

For other pointers, there are homestays that can cook food for you. You can shop for fresh seafood in the market and have it cooked for a minimal charge. There are no fancy restaurants or fastfoods, only karenderia or turo-turo serving homecooked foods which are acceptable to the ordinary palate. Nightlife in Caramoan is almost nil. If you want to unwind over bottles of cold beer after a long day, you can just buy them at the mini-grocery stores and drink them at your hotel, that is if its houserules allow :). So that's it. Two days of fun. :)

FIN.


Recap :

Trip

Manila - Naga 8 hrs. bus, P700 to P1K; 45 mins plane, fare varies (this is one-way)

Naga- Sabang, Partido 2 hrs. van, P90

Sabang-Guijalo Port 2 to 2.5 hrs. Harry, P125


Guijalo Port to Centro 30 mins. tricycle, multicab or scooter, P30

Accommodation:
Hotels, inns, homestays (a lot to choose from at the Centro or in coastal barangays) P150/head to P3000/house or room

Boat rental:
P2000 to P3000 for whole day island hopping

No entrance fees at the islands, just make sure to not leave your garbage so as to preserve their beauty